Slowninja,
"It's still really hard for me to understand how you run those numbers. If the 09 is the same as in your sig, i made almost 20 more hp and 7 more tq, had a 1.46 60' so surely thats not a 'problem' and only went 5.85 on mine at 123. only went 9.02 @ 155 same pass too. Enlighten me"
Slo,
It's almost impossible to compare (your or any others) bikes dyno numbers, unless you are coming off of the same dyno as the other guy, then you'll have some fairly representative number, for comparison to that bike/bikes, and that's about it. The numbers won't be exact, but pretty close. So your 196 number, higher or lower than another persons off different dynos, even given you have a reasonable tune, don't mean anything, except if you want to argue a "numbers' point of view over beers, for those lost souls who want to do that. O:
But for you, if that number of yours changes due to a mod with tunning to it, then that is info for you, about how that particular mod benefits your bike, or not. And chances are that if that mod effects your bike with that power/TTD increase/decrease, it would effect about any other 14, equiped the same as your, with the same 'about' tune, similarly.
Almost any OEM bike, tested on a same dyno, will likely give you about the very same numbers. Once you move away to different dyno types, un-certified, you can get wildly different numbers. Dynojet keeps their dynos fairly consistent between one another (certified: maintained and settings), so they have pretty good inter and intra-reliability with and between their dynos. With dynojet I used the word reliability and not accuracy. "Reliability" because with their maintained certified dynos, the same bike comes up with very close number, on the same dyno, run after run, or dyno to dyno, given atmosphereic changes. That is called 'reliability' in terms of 'testing'. However, that is no indication that their numbers are the 'correct' numbers, as compared to any non-dynojet, or undertified dynojet dyno, which is a demonstration of "accuracy". Who knows who's dyno, or what dyno has the output numbers are the 'true' numbers.
So, from my perspective, use a dyno to obtain a base for your bike, HP-TQ numbers not mattering, and then you have your base line to know if your mods are about getting you in the "ballpark" for that particular mod. So that baseline number becomes your initial comparison number, for future reference.
Almost all modern same equiped bikes will respond to the same mod with the same increase/decrease on HP/TQ - TTD, dependant on altitude and tuner. From there, after the mods, it becomes fine tuning that can dial in the best TTD. It's pretty easy to get lost in chasing the HP-TQ 'numbers', which can be very misleading, and other than when used for just your bike and changes you make to it, is sorta useless. So mod and tune for best TTD (not HP-TQ), if you are looking for best TTD.
TTD seems to be what you are looking for as I get your post. Hope I understood you correctly.
So beyond your mods/equip for the task, and a good, spot on tune, atmosphere, if all those are 'good' and have been appropriately considered, you'er largely left with technique for lower TTD's.
I have seen pretty dramatic changes in TTD's, just by a change in A/F of .1
* Last updated by: JDC on 7/2/2009 @ 12:20 PM *